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Joe's Tales from Visayas and Tips for Trips 1999 / 2000 by Alfred N. "Joe" Bruckner A B N C - NEWS & COMMENTARIES 
L A P U - L A P U - C I T Y ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- " W h e r e - C e b u - B e g i n s " LAPU LAPU CITY is for most of two or three million passengers arriving at MACTAN (CEBU) INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT, just "Transit" station on the way to their final destination in Cebu or in an other Visayan island. 1988, when I arrived first time in Visayas, LAPU LAPU CITY was also for me not more than a place to change from air to land transportation on my way to BADIAN ISLAND on the sunset side of Cebu, where I found on this small island a very nice Hotel Resort with "private" atmosphere ..... to stay for few days relaxing vacations on the end of my "explorer" tours throug the islands in the Philippine archipelago, before I had to return to Europe. Sometimes more, I came to LAPU LAPU CITY just in "Transit" to BADIAN ISLAND ..... till I was during 1995 living in this City. My home-place was behind the Airport. During day-time, our public transportation service was the environment-friendly (human powered) "Trisikad" - a bicycle with side-car - to the connecting road from east coast to the City center, and then a "Tricycle" - a motor-bike with side-car, good for up to six passengers (or more). Jeepneys bound for CEBU CITY departed from a terminal near the bridge-head; also available was a ferry-boat connection between OPON Pier and Pier 3 in CEBU CITY. More difficult was it to find a public transportation service during late night or in the early morning. Sometimes, I was lucky to catch a bypassing (metered) Taxi or I had to walk, or I had to ask for the friendly service of a neighbour, to bring me to the Airport, to catch an early morning flight. So, I applied as a "driver" in the company of a friend, and then, I had my "own" Taxi to CEBU CITY. But the reason behind was to find out more about "Land Transportation Business" and to make experiments in Taxi service. Soon, I could offer the "first taxi in Cebu with (mobile) phone on board" - including prebooking and reservation service for my passengers. Of course, during this time, I learned more about Metro Cebu and I approached barangays which I would have visited otherwise never in my lifetime. Now, I will share with you my findings about DATU LAPU LAPU and HIS "EXCEPTIONAL" CITY ========================================================================================= More than three quarters of the land area on Mactan Island is covered by the City and its 19 barangays - round 5,400 hectars. The neighbouring town of CORDOVA is located on the southeast corner on this flat island east of Cebu. The 900 hectar island across Hilutangan Channel on Mactan's east coast, belongs with its 8 barangays to the City of Lapu Lapu - O l a n g o - I s l a n d , ---------------------------------------------- to the south "expanding to double-size" during low-tide, is home and breeding place to many species of birds. Also for thousands of migration birds, this island is just "transit" station and resting place on their way from nestling areas in Sibiria or Northern China to winter "vacation" destinations in New Zealand or Australia, and back again. The bird sanctuary can be visited during the whole year. Ferry connections are available - for example - from ANGASIL at Mactan's northeast coast to SANTA ROSA on Olango's west coast; tricycles are connecting service to barangays and sitios at the entrance to the place where the birds can be observed. Best time to arrive, is with high tide and you can walk - during low tide - far into the area. Few Tour Operators offer packages including picknick for a much higher price than one have to pay for "public" transportation which is not more "unsafe" than some "Colorum" or "private" boats used by Tour Operators and their agents. On the other hand, food - fresh grilled fish or chicken - is also available in the island. Also belonging to the City of Lapu Lapu are south of Olango the islets of CAOHAGAN, PANGA-AN, CAUBIAN DIYOT with its three barangays, and the "rock" CAUBIAN DAKO. H I S T O R Y =============================================================================== The history of this exceptional LAPU LAPU CITY don't begin in 1961, when OPON became City, but nearly five centuries before: In Chrisian calendars was to read the date "27th of April" in the year 1521. Some sailing ships crossed - departed from Cebu - the Mactan Channel. On board were not only sailors, but a highly armed Spanish troop led by the portuguese sailor in service for the King of Spain - FERDINAND MAGELLAN ---------------------------------------- Also "passengers" on board were warriors from Cebu where Magellan landed fews weeks before on Good Friday, the 9th of April, to celebrate the Easter Mass. Magellan first mistake was, to underestimated the power of resistance by the natives led by DATU LAPU LAPU ---------------------------------------- Reinforcement found the Spaniards also by warriors of DATU ZULA ZULA from the southern part of Mactan, who was in rivalry with LAPU LAPU. The Spaniards made an other mistake: They did not consider the consequence of the difference between high and low tide when they arrived in the landing area. So, the Spaniards and their allied were engaged in a fierce fight in which MAGELLAN was killed in the slaughter and with him most of his crew, because the running fight ended in the water and the ships couldt not depart from the shallow bay. Only less than two dozens were able to continue and finish the first circumnavigation of the globe. Circa 200 years later, in the year 1730, Autustinian monks from Cebu founded a settlement at the west coast of Mactan and named this 7th town O P O N , ---------------------------------------- which became chartered City on June 17, 1961. In honor of DATU LAPU LAPU, Opon was named after this "first revolutionary" hero against the Spaniards - L A P U - L A P U - C I T Y . =============================================================================== Since 1933, a monument in the barangay of PUNTA ENGANA is facing the battlefield and Datu Lapu Lapu from his pedestal is overlooking the bay. But also Magellan was not out of memory. Still during spanish era, in the year 1866, was built "MAGELLAN's MARKER" and beside is located "MACTAN SHRINE", now sometimes stop on guided tours, including on one day of every year: On the 27th of April, now a (local)holiday, a fiesta is celebrated and it is also a spectacle for guests and tourists. An event like this is always a welcome opportunity for politicians, local or regional "Heads" and other "VIP's" to deliver speeches on occasion to talk about "visions", and to smile into lenses of cameras and to give friendly statements and interviews to reporters. Sometimes, when I make "follow ups" after such events, I cannot find any more some people in their former offices who told me a while before fantastic (or "funtastic") stories. Projects, supported with millions or more look ..... like some digits "got lost" or the comma drifted too far to the left. One (of some more) example(s) is the "beautifying" of the environ surrounding "MAGELLAN's CROSS" in front of Cebu's City Hall ..... on occasion of ATF - ASEAN TOURISM FORUM - in 1998, held the first time outside of Manila, in Cebu's then newly built International Congress Center, errected in the former southern final approach sector of the old LAHUG Airport, ritht beside Cebu City's Casino with a hotel, named "Waterfront" (because of viewing from the hill Mactan Channel?) D E V E L O P M E N T =============================================================================== At the end of third quarter in the past century, two milestones in LAPU LAPU CITY's history were significant for development and economic prosperity: The one event was the inauguration of " M A C T A N - B R I D G E " ------------------------------------------------ on the 4th of July, 1973. With this "land" connection between Cebu City's southern neighbour Mandaue City and Mactan, it was possible to transfer commercial flight operations from Cebu City's Airport in LAHUG to Mactan Air Base which came in 1961 to Lapu Lapu City. The right power drive was in the late eighties the extension of Mactan's Runway to 3,300 meters and construction of new terminals for passenger and cargo handling. The fast growing Airport was upgraded to MACTAN (CEBU) INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT and so, direct and nonstop international flight connections were possible and offered to Visayan imported market places in Singapore, Malaysia, Hong Kong and Japan. The area near bridge-head and Airport became home to many new companies and business establishments, factories and a shopping center. One Export-zone was built in the area northwest of the Airport, an other was developed south of the Air Base. More Resorts and Hotels were built along the northwest coast of Mactan. To compete with Boracay in Western Visayas. "white" sand was "imported" from sandbanks and small islets in front of Bohol's northeast coast ..... LAPU LAPU CITY and Mactan island grew up to an international ("Dollar"-) destination, named "CEBU". T R A F F I C =============================================================================== There is never a "yield" in investment for construction or improvement of (island-) roads - except profit for contractors (and their "environ"). So, the reality was slowly limping far behind and could never meet fast running development ahead. Increasing heavy traffic had to force way through narrow lanes within the City center and from coast to coast. In consequence of development and many more job offers, transport capacity was required to carry daily thousands employees between their homes in the neighbourig island of Cebu to their working places in LAPU LAPU CITY. Instead to accomplish from the begin (!) the minimum requirements in (a little bit) efficient mass tansportation and to offer higher capacity per unit, the contrary way was gone: more units with less capacity - more jeepney lines were approved. One could (and can) think it was (is) the example of short sight in (governmental) "Transport and Traffic (Mis-)management" (just to bring with more units a higher amount in collecing fees for franchise and registrations ??) The jeepney instead of bus was (is still now) the "King of the road". But not only that !!! Backbone in inner City transportation networks (?) from coast to coast was (is) the dinosaur "Tricycle": Much more units than neccessary with much lesser capacity than the (prehistoric) jeepney are on tour. Forget Air Pollution! The City center is like an ant-hill. Noisy and stinky vehicles are buzzling through narrow lanes and, diverting to alternative routes, congesting more roads than necessary. During my research tours, I could not find plans for the future to handle traffic management in an efficient way -meaning service offered (just) for the public instead of continuing supporting (questionable) so-called "private" business due to tolerating operation of "Colorum" - those smart people who offer (all kind of) of "service" without any licenses, papers and required documents and so not "supporting in exchange back" governmeht (and public) needs by paying their taxes and fees. May-be it is to consider that with less transport units are less "job opportunities" (and less voters and / or helpers in campaigns??) Backward to the Future ..... E C O N O M Y =============================================================================== Right in time at the begin of the third millenium, a second bridge to Cebu was built - one and a half kilometer north of the "old" bridge which had to carry daily up to 40,000 vehicles. Once there will also be an International Port in LAPU LAPU CITY. A ("non-profitable", but efficient) railway-system to handle mass tansportation can wait. The occasion to prepare the new bridge construction - in advance - to add later a second level for trains, was missed (by sleeping). Lapu Lapu City is known as the GUITAR CENTER of the Philippines. What MITTENWALD in Bavaria is for violines, is LAPU LAPU CITY for guitars. Some factories can be visited and one can watch the artisans during their work. Guitars in lower quality quality, but higher price, are sold as souvenirs at frequented places. High quality instruments are exported and offered in a rich assortment in specialized shops. Seafood, fishing, shell farming, manufacturing of shellcraft and handicraft made from "Mactan Stone", secure livelihood for many islanders. Local fishermen in their small bancas are in fear to lose their jobs and fishing grounds south of Mactan Island, if a proposed project of 3,500 hectars reclamation area will be pushed through - even it might be realized only in a fraction. Export-zones and some commercial establishments in the environ of Airport and first bridge-head were hit by the so-called "Asian crisis" during the last couple of years in the past century. It seems, most of them could survive. One government owned establishment is still suffering from a "home-made" crisis by its most important "customer" - MACTAN (CEBU) INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Pampered by two-digided growth rates in numbers of aircraft movements and passenger arrivals and departures, the management of this gateway to Visayas was once shocked when it read statistics and bank accounts were endangered to run empty. What happened ?? The national carrier flew in (economic) turbulences and took first leave of its international network. Later, also the counters in domestic Airports remained closed ..... The oldest Airline in Asia was - involuntary - "grounded". Newcomers in the sky over the 7,107 islands, operating with old equipment, challenged the personell "overloaded" flag carrier and joined in a stiff competition in fight for domestic market segments by offering lower rates. But those Airlines with their second-or-more-hand equipment were not prepared (and able) to compensate lacking capacity. After a while, PHILIPPINE AIRLINES rose up again and returned - relaxed and with fresh enterprises - into the sky and meet with its mosly leased, but modern fleet of widebody aircraft, the requirements in service of a reduced international and also (brutal) shortened domestic network. The fleet of turbo-prop Focker-50 aircraft remained finally on ground and flight crews hat to look for other jobs. But those 50-seaters planes were once - except on the "race tracks" for jet-engined aircraft - the "backbone" in the domestic services, especially to small airfields with shorter runways, not equiped for jets. During "Happy Days", there were shown on monitors in Mactan's terminals more domestic destinations than in Manila. But it seems, this time is definitive past and not only Cebu's Airport lost traffic, also some (expensive expanded) airfields are endangered that grassroots take over the space on concrete runways. Lamentation about lacking (more) international connections is not the solution, as long as this "international" Airport in LAPU LAPU CITY perstists in its "Service" in a standard on a level below (international) domestic requirements. But this is an other story. E N V I R O N M E N T That Mactan Channel is misused as a waste disposer by shipping lines and passengers on board of inter-island vessels, is not only caused by "development" in the booming area Metro Cebu. It is also in the mentality of some people and residents along coastal areas. Even, when something is turning to a better way, there is no reason to sit down and relax in furhter inactivity. Garbage - 80 to 100 tons daily (!) - is, according to informations, collected by the City administration, but it is more and more difficult to find proper (land) areas. Assortment and recycling of garbage is still not common practice in our country. On the other hand, large areas in Mactan island are the whole year "decorated" like for X-mas: placstic bags and other goods - distributet by the wind on this flat island - can be found hanging in trees, on rocks, stones ..... To protect water resources in the stony island of Mactan, and to find undiscovered water reservoirs will be one of the greatest challenges in the new millenium, but is also one of the most important future projects ..... not only for the City government. Too much valuable water in drinking quality is wasted. Housing areas are fast growing and more migrants (and squatters), even from outside of Visayas, have to be expected in view of past and continuing future forward moving development. Much more than a third of the citizens of LAPU LAPU CITY - including the islands in the Hilutangan Channel - are not connected to water pipelines. Water is delivered by 20-litre-container - compare to water from pipelines at exorbitant rates - to houses or to be picked-up on (public) wells. Guests in Resorts along Mactan's east coast don't see the water delivery truck at the "backstage". The waterways east of Mactan are - due to less traffic - not so heavy polluted. Nevertheless, coral gardens and reefs are partly destroyed by dynamite and - even in the marina sanctuary of Olango Island - still ongoing C y a n i d e - F i s h i n g ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- While dynamite fishing is easier to identify, because a blast is to see and to hear, cyanide is an insidious and silent murderous attempt: Ten grams of cyanide whip out one hectar of corals in one swipe - but takes three days before cyanide evaporate to the air. During these three days, cyanide is destroying coral reefs, coral gardens ..... beautiful nature products built in thousands of years - in a job, done in few seconds - and it needs again hundred of years till corals can regenerate. By the way, one reason for preferred cyanide fishing by - not (!) only "local" - fishermen - is not poverty, it is also the demand in so-called "industrial countries" for (beautiful) "tropical" fish to decorate (home) aquariums. Only a small portion of fish catched by this methode survive stress and transport and is dying soon. More catch is needed ..... it's a spiral. An other very proper methode to damage corals is - ironical - "used" by those people with intention to show their guests the bountiful underwater world surrounding our islands and islets: Diving boats, dropping anchors. But tourists want to enjoy and to have fun and action during their vacations, particularly those guests coming from metropolitan areas in the radius for four to five hours flight time ..... because their length of stay is limited by less (paid) holidays than other people in "Global Village". Apropos "to enjoy" .......... Of course, in suite of "Prince Tourist" are enough (local and migration) "Princesses" to comply with requests of guests ..... some of them arriving just for no other reason. Bars and Clubs in some streets and areas are mushrooming ..... opened and closed - somtimes "involuntary" by order of the City government after raids ..... seeming to show "action", to deliver "news" for reporters ..... to demonstate "performance" on the front stage while "new arrivals" enter via the back stage. That this kind of "Business" is - and this is not a curiosity (!) - well known by the concerned authorities, is an other story ..... but not only in this country is it difficult - now and then deadly - to go beyond a "tolerated" boarder, particularly when "drugs" in addition are involved and "money loundries" are endangered to "dry out" ..... managed by "locals" (with connections) or - in the backgound - "controlled" by other people, some of them with status "Tourist". T O U R I S M According to brochures, catalogues, flyers and other informations about the "Queen City of the Southern Philippines" ..... Beaches, Hotels and Resorts are in "CEBU", even if they are - more than one hour driving time away - located in Mactan Island and so in LAPU LAPU CITY. Insofar as Tourism is concerned, LAPU LAPU CITY or - if you like it to name it so - "CEBU", claiming (want) to be "Asias Top Tourist Destination Number One", has (all?) those facilities for such a destination. Let's look around: Hotels and Resorts - particularly on Mactan's (or Cebu's?) east coast ..... temporary like castles of "Sleeping Beauty", when managers (and / or owners?) don't miss occasions to shoo away potential tourists, in (still) continuing to keep on charging (overpriced) in the upper "Dollar"- (just price-) Class and those guests then accept offers from other destinations in ASEAN-member countries where the relation between exorbitant rates and quality in exchange is not (so) oblique-angled. Even a "floating" Resort is anchored in Mactan Channel - right in front of the Export-zone and beside a yacht harbour. An other (former) cruising liner anchoring in the Mactan Channel - once, when it was young on tour within Japanese waters - had after face-lifting like an elderly lady a short Renaissance in Philippine waters before it became jobless and is now waiting for the wake-up kiss. And there is - maybe the only one in the world - LAPU LAPU CITY's Casino with a Hotel (named after its "Waterfront" of the pool) and with it's "own" (international) Airport. Nevertheless, in LAPU LAPU CITY - and in "CEBU" - are also numerous Resorts, Hotels and Pension Houses in the "Peso"-Price-Class. And there are - interesting for guests with more time - many offers to rent appartments, even some Hotels offer discounted "monthly" rates. By the way, LAPU LAPU CITY is not very "active" in promoting their "destination" ...... (it's "CEBU"). D E S T I N A T I O N ================================================================================ LAPU LAPU CITY <-----> C E B U Hotels and Resorts along the east coast of Mactan are not - like in other destinations, competing with Cebu and also claiming to be "Top" destinations, for example Hawaii, Florida, along Mediteranean coast lines or in the Canary Islands - lined up and flanked by restaurants, street cafes, shopping arcades, parks. In Mactan (or "Cebu"), they are isolated, surrounded - except to the "Waterfront" - by walls, high planks or stong fences ..... maybe for reasons of "security". Strolling along the streets like in Palm Beach, in Nassau, Palma de Mallorca, Funchal Madeira or in Honolulu ..... ??? One evening dining (outside) in Italian style, an other day Japanese or Chinese ..... the other day to try Cebuano cuisine ..... ????? N e g a t i v e ! If you like to see (in the second week of your stay) also the neighbouring island Cebu, you need a transportatiion and you will be charged higher - because of the "location" far, far away ..... except you can use (during day-time) the free Shuttle of a Resort with (real) "World Class" facilities like Shangri La's. Public tansportation services are not available in the "Tourist zone" and if you are lucky to find a (metered) Taxi, the driver don't like to use his "Meter" - without any fear of consequences. T o u r O p e r a t o r s ------------------------------------------------------- In Hotels and Resorts and some branch offices in LAPU LAPU CITY are offered "Local Tours" - mostly "standard" trips on touristic beaten paths - without any variations, calculated in "Pesos", charged in "Dollars". DoT (Department of Tourism) accredited Tour Guides ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- show you - if you ask them (!) some Museums and few old buildings from the Spanish era in (promoted) tourist spots. They offer guided tours in Japanese language and - of course - in English, but there are - maybe less than Fingers on two hands - only few speaking "European". (Multilingual and multitalented) "Free-Lunch" Tourist Guides - also known as "Hupo Hupo" - are on "Service" all over the island (and in "CEBU") and they know more than just museums or old buildings ..... because they are more "specialized" in other kind of "entertainment" (or attention to their guests), including to help single travelers not to "waste" the other half of a double room. By the way, special or discounted offers in Travel Agencies - DoT accredited or not - are usual on "twin sharing" accomodation and you are charged als a (real) single traveler with the same rate as with (included) "escort" ..... Catch the Bird! Most liked guests are those who arrive with a hand full of vouchers - all is arranged and prepaid. More difficult to handle are " I n d i v i d u a l - T r a v e l e r s " , -------------------------------------------------------------------------- particularly if they arrive from (Central) Europe, reading - after booking of their, according to brochures, "Dream Vacations" - in books or in some few available, but many times incomplete, informations about the "Country and its People", and they have more time for their first or second or third vacation trip in one year, and they are willing to spend more days (and money) in one destination, but they are also interested to see a little bit more than just Airport, sand, palm trees, the "Waterfront", a (recycled) buffet, the poolbar and maybe a night-club with always the same so-called "cultural" shows - in compensation of a very poor real cultural performance in this part of our country ..... because our CYSO - CEBU YOUTH SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA cannot be on stage every week and don't have a "home" for (real) cultural activities. WHAT MAKES LAPU LAPU CITY SO "EXCEPTIONAL" ?? =============================================================================== It is the above-average growth rate of its population! When Opon became chartered City and was named LAPU LAPU CITY, there was a population of 48,500. Two decades later, LAPU LAPU CITY doubled the number, and just one decade later, the population was tribled to 146,000. Till 1995, 27,000 inhabitants more came to LAPU LAPU CITY. Within one year, from 1995 to 1996, the humber of citizens was growing by 32,000 to then 206,000. At change of millenium, the population of LAPU LAPU CITY is maybe in a range of a quarter of a million, caused by more migration after full blast of economic prosperity in Mactan Island ..... in this - according to informations in the City Government - "rich" City with an annual gross income (1997) in the range of a quarter of a billion (Pesos). So, even in consideration or because in consideration what I told to you in my story, come and check it out and make your own opinion. Visit Datu Lapu Lapu's exceptional City with (some) facilities of a "World Class Destination", but the still remaining charme of good old Opon Town. Last but not least, I will introduce to you a place for a contemplative visit: "NUESTRA VIRGEN DE LA REGLA", =============================================================================== at home in the Catholic Church, right opposite of "Muelle Osmena", the former ferry port before a bridge was constructed. "Muelle Osmena" or known as "Opon Pier" is in short walking distance to Lapu Lapu City's center with Public Market. It is still today landing place for "Metro Ferry" which shuttle boats cross the Mactan Channel in 25 minutes. Two, three or four boats per hour are departing between morning and ...past seven from Muelle Osmena to Pier 3 in Cebu City's Port - also in short walking distance to Cebu City's center in downtown: via Pier 2 and Pier 1 to Fort San Pedro and in less than five minutes to Basilica Minore del Stanto Nino with the image of "Santo Nino". Nearby "Muelle Osmena" is the landing place for an other fery-boat: WW II veteran "MAROU" from MANDAUE CITY - Ouano wharf. Back to "Nuestra Virgen de la Regla": Fr. FRANCESCO ABALLE, first parish priest of Opon, brought the icon 1736 to Mactan - after the blessed Virgin ws taken first by Augustinian monks to Spain and enshrined in a small chapel in the mountein fastness of Caciz. Since 1736, "Nuestra Virgen de la Regla" is visited by numerous pilgrims and believers. Every year, on the 20th and 21st of November, is held fiesta. It is a popular festival - not a spectacle for tourists. Thousands of devoters come to ask miraculous favors and cures or to give thanks for miracles received. M A B U H A Y - WELCOME ! |
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 Alfred N. "Joe" Bruckner Correspondent Travel Writer - Photographer Tourist Guide A B N C - NEWS & COMMENTARIES |
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